| The
Hook and the Hoot Manual |
| Step 1: Install elevator
horn |
| On the bottom surface of the elevator mark a spot 20
mm behind the hinge and 5 mm off to one side. Pic 1 shows the
offset to the left, but offset to the right will be fine as well.
Being right-handed the left offset lets me hold the stab with the
left hand during field assembly, while the right hand threads the
linkage into the horn. |
-1-
elevator marker |
-2-
elevator horn |
| With a sharp blade, remove the Oracover where the
elevator horn goes; be careful not to cut into the wood too much.
Using the elevator horn as a guide, mark where to drill the holes
for the horn, and drill the two small holes; test-fit the horn, then
pull it out. Make sure the supplied music wire slides snugly but
easily through the hole in the horn. If necessary, carefully enlarge
hole. If you want to install the horn with CA (as I did), make sure
to use a foam-friendly, odor-less variety to avoid damaging the foam
under the sheeting. Alternatively, use foam-friendly epoxy to
install the horn. Pic 2 shows the finished installation. You
can now further secure the horn with a small bead of regular, thick
CA around the perimeter of the horn. |
| Step 2: Cut out hatch for elevator
servo |
| Notice recessed area on left side of fin, and draw a
concentric circle about 45 mm in diameter as shown in Pic 3.
With a hobby knife, cut a hole big enough to accept a large
Dremel-style sanding drum. If you don't have this type of tool,
carefully cut the hole as big as you can with a sharp blade, then
finish by hand. Pic 4 shows the result. |
-3-
fin before cut |
-4-
servo opening |
| Step 3: Install elevator
servo |
-5-
mark fin |
Bolt horizontal stabilizer onto the fin with the elevator taped
in the neutral position. Tape the supplied elevator pushrod to the
fin as shown in Pic 5, and mark the fin where the pushrod
will exit the fuselage. File out an exit slot for the pushrod as
shown in Pic 6.
-6-
top fin filed
|
Lengthen the servo lead by cutting it in
half and soldering in enough twisted extension that the servo plug
can be pulled to about 2 inches in front of the rear edge of the
wing saddle opening. Make sure servo travel is centered and install
servo arm.
Place servo into opening and mark servo arm just
short enough to stay within the thickness of the fin. Check to
assure that the Z-bend of the elevator linkage will slide into the
hole of the servo arm firmly but easily. Now loosely place servo
into the opening in its final position and make sure that it still
is centered properly. Carefully measure the distance between the
hole in the servo arm and the hole in the elevator horn. Remove the
elevator servo.
Transfer this measurement onto the elevator
linkage, then bend the linkage 90 degrees. Make sure your bend is in
a plain set at 90-degrees to that of the Z-bend and that it points
in the direction of the offset of the elevator horn. Remove the
horizontal stabilizer from the fuselage and insert the elevator
linkage into the fin through the slot in the top so that the Z-bend
appears in the servo opening. Now it's time to decide how to fasten
the servo in the fin. Use your favorite method. Most people have
good success with a few small dabs of Goop/Shoe-goo or 5-minute
epoxy, and even CA. Get ready whatever you want to use.
Now
thread the servo lead through the servo opening into the boom and
the servo onto the Z-bend, making sure the servo remains centered,
and place inside servo opening. Mount the horizontal stab by
threading the elevator linkage onto the elevator horn. This defines
the final position of the servo. Again make sure servo arm and
elevator are centered, then goop/glue in the servo. Pic 7
shows the installation of a Volz Zip servo, but any similar servo
will fit. Pic 8 shows how the installation looks at the
elevator end. |
-7-
tail servo |
-8-
elevator hookup |
| Make a round, 50-mm diameter cover for
the elevator servo hole from thin plastic or other material. One
elegant way is to use 1/64 inch plywood and just iron on with an
oversized patch of iron-on plastic film. Shown in Pic 9 is a
cover installed with a round patch of reflective tape. Step 4:
Install motor mount The motor mount should be within 1/4 inch of the
front edge of the fuselage. If you purchased our Lehner system, we
have included a fitting mount; otherwise any mount with about 45 mm
outside diameter will fit well. |
-9-
elevator servo patch |
| Step 4: Install motor mount |
The motor mount should be within 1/4 inch of the front
edge of the fuselage. If you purchased our Lehner system with the
Hook, we have included a fitting mount; otherwise any mount with
about 45 mm outside diameter will fit well.
Sand the inside of
the fuselage where the motor mount will contact the fuselage wall.
Mount the motor to the motor mount and insert into fuselage in
approximate position. Slide on the spinner to square up the mount
inside the fuselage, hold motor firmly and steady, and carefully
slide off spinner.
Now tack on the motor mount from the front
with a few spots of thick CA; slide the spinner back on to assure
squareness and hold the spinner on while the CA cures. Pic 10
and Pic 11 show the spinner being held on and what the final
installation looks like. Once the CA has cured. Carefully remove
spinner and motor from mount and glue in the motor mount from behind
with more thick CA or epoxy; black rubberized CA works well also,
but be aware that it takes a while to cure completely. |
-10-
spinner on |
-11-
motor in mount |
| Step 5: Mount wings to fuselage |
Start by gluing the alignment pin (small piece of
dowel) in the root of one wing half; make sure it's square, then one
drop of thin CA will do the job.
Next, glue the leading-edge
dowels into each half of the wing. The dowels must be at right
angles to the leading edge span-wise and follow the pre-drilled
holes pitch-wise. Using slow epoxy here assures a better bond than
foam-friendly CA. Do not use regular CA, as it will eat the foam
inside the wing requiring an ugly and extensive repair. Pic
12 shows the wing slid into the fuselage by the dowels. Note
that the wing center and the seam on the fuselage do not line up.
This is normal, because the fuselage is constructed with the seam
offset to one side. |
-12-
leading-edge dowels |
| Next, locate the aluminum blind nuts for the rear
wing mount in the fuselage. From the inside, test-fit them into the
pre-drilled holes at the trailing edge of the wing mount. If the
predrilled holes are too small, carefully re-drilling them with a
5.5 mm or 7/32 inch drill bit will help; you can also use a round
file to concentrically enlarge the holes. Glue in the blind nuts by
placing a minimal amount of thick CA on the flange, then pressing
them up flush into the pre-drilled holes from inside the
fuselage. Pic 13 shows the finished installation. In
addition to the kit hardware, we have included two each metal screws
for wing and tail mounting. |
-13-
rear wing mount |
|
Step 6: Installing aileron servo wiring
-14-
lead channel
|
On the bottom of the wing, locate the pre-drilled
hole for where the servo wire has to exit. This hole is too small
and can safely be enlarged to 1/2 inch diameter without compromising
the structural integrity of the root area.
To install the wire,
it is easiest to drill another 1/8 inch hole into the root rib so
that a long, thin rod or tube or music wire can be inserted and
pushed into the wiring channel all the way to the servo well. Pic
14 shows this clearly with a carbon rod pushed into the channel.
Twisted servo wire can now be attached to the rod/tube/wire at the
servo end and pulled through the channel to the root. Fish out the
wire through the enlarged hole in the bottom of the wing. |
|
Step 7: Install aileron servos Note:
before installing servos make sure that the linkage hardware you
plan to use engages the servo arm smoothly and without play; it's
easier to enlarge the hole in the servo arm before the servo is
installed.
Before installing aileron servos, program your radio
for spoilerons with the servos on the bench. Once programming is
complete and servos are centered, mount servo arms so that they'll
stick straight down from the bottom of the wing as shown in Pic
15. |
-15-
aileron servo |
Before you install the servos, you have to cut off the
leads and solder on the servo wiring; save the plug to solder it to
the root end of the wiring. Do observe proper polarity when
soldering servos and plug. All new servos today are wired
negative-positive-signal, with the positive wire always red, and the
negative wire always darker than the signal wire. Typical wire
colors today are black-red-white or brown-red-yellow; in the latter,
brown is negative, and yellow is signal.
Make the servo wires
long enough that 6 to 8 inches are hanging from the exit hole at the
root; this allows you to plug them into the receiver easily during
assembly. |
| Step 8: Install aileron linkages |
| Note: before installing control horns make sure that
the linkage hardware you plan to use engages the horn smoothly and
without play; it's easier to enlarge the hole in the control horn
before the horn is installed. With the servos in, it is now easy to
complete the linkages. Pic 16 shows a good way to mark the
aileron. Pic 17 shows the aileron prepared for horn
installation. Use a new, sharp blade to carefully remove the
Oracover from the aileron; this is very important to provide a
proper gluing surface; do not skip this step. |
-16-
aileron horn marked |
-17-
horn preparation |
The 3 prongs on the aileron horns are too long and
must be shortened to fit properly. Test-fit the horn until it's
flange makes full contact with the aileron surface before gluing it
in. Here, slow epoxy is the best adhesive, and we recommend it.
Alternatively, you can use thick foam-friendly CA for the initial
gluing, and once that's set, place a thin bead of regular thick CA
around the horn where it contacts the aileron; you have to remove a
strip of Oracover wider and longer than the horn's flange for this
to work properly, so plan ahead.
Pic 18 and Pic19
show the horn installed and the linkage attached. The linkage shown
has a Z-bend at the servo arm and a clevis at the aileron horn. To
do this right, requires the use of Z-bend pliers. You can do
without, but if you don't have one, consider making the linkage with
clevises on both ends instead.
To make the linkage as shown,
screw the clevis onto the threaded rod to about center. With servos
centered, and the aileron taped in the center position, line up the
clevis with the control horn, and mark where the Z-bend has to be at
the servo end. |
-18-
horn installed |
-19-
aileron linkage |
| Step 9: Final assembly |
Note: the kit includes a plywood former for battery
mounting. We found this former unnecessary, and did not use it.
Install receiver, receiver pack, and switch behind the wing
opening with the receiver just forward enough to allow the aileron
servos to be plugged in.
The battery pack mounts simply with
Velcro to the bottom of the fuselage. Pics 20-22 show how
it's done. Pic 23 shows how the controller is mounted along
the fuselage. |
-20-
battery position |
-21-
battery insert |
-22-
battery installed |
-23-
controller mounted |
